Galant Starts Runs for a While and Will Not Start Again Until Cool

byebye_sti · 164 1 Dec 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

O2 sensor was wired incorrectly. Grey and Black wire were switched.

I swapped in (4) 450cc injectors that all had similar resistance (2.4ohms). The car IS getting spark when the auto is cold.

Afterward swapping in the injectors, and zero-ing out the SAFC, the car fired right upward and ran smoothly. Revs were polish, idle wasn't boucning or choppy, merely the idle was loftier. two,000-3,000 RPM. Information technology came down a niggling with the aligning of the BISS screw.

The car idled fine, but some smoke starting time to come from the radiator - most like oily finger prints were called-for off, but I didn't desire to chance it and close the car off.

Once shut off, the motorcar would Not restart.

So, I allow the auto cool downwardly for an hr. When I went dorsum to it, information technology fired correct up, and held idle perfectly fine. I let it run for about twenty seconds and shut it downwards. I wanted to see if information technology would restart...and it did, merely it was a piddling tougher. I allow it run for another 20-30 seconds and shut it down. It tried to start, but just kept cranking.

Now, what would cause the car not to kickoff when the auto is warmed up? Power Transistor Unit (PTU)? Would a coilpack exercise this?

byebye_sti · 164 1 Dec 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

Timing is good - forgot to mention I've checked/tested near everything; TPS, ISC, Resistor pack, MAF, ECU (awaiting a new 1).

Could it take annihilation to do with my Fuel Pump Relay having a bunch of gunk in it? White grease and looks a little rusty? I went to go bypass the relay and plant a nasty mess.

FIAV is blocked off, also as EGR.

ervin00 · 105 9 Nov 27, 2013 Pinon Hills, California

Is there a style for you to cheque the fuel pressure? That could explain a lot and assist you lot narrow it down.

byebye_sti · 164 one Dec 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

Is there a way for you to check the fuel force per unit area? That could explain a lot and assist you narrow information technology downward.

I demand to add a gauge on the rail. It would be nice if I could see fuel pressure level.

On 1G'southward, does the Fuel Pump prime number when the key is in the ON position? If I remember correctly, from my reading, information technology does not.

Thanks for the links; extremely helpful. I volition be testing out nearly of those fixes today.

As for the Fuel Pump Solenoid, if I don't take have i, would it make sense to detect another and reinstall? The previous owner HACKED this car up, and I'thou trying to fix all the gremlins that seem to be arising all at once.

My Fuel Pump Relay is caked with white grease, and looks a bit rusty. Could this exist causing me some issues? My plans are to clean upwardly the connector and bypass the relay to see if this solves my problem. I can't imagine all the grease would be helping whatsoever...

ervin00 · 105 9 Nov 27, 2013 Pinon Hills, California

I had a similar problem and information technology concluded up being the fuel pump relay. That is the reason I mentioned the fuel pressure judge. Information technology would randomly not plow on the fuel pump. Relay normally don't go bad but it does happen and from what you are maxim it seems like y'all are narrowing information technology down to the relay( existence rusty and having grease on it). Good luck!

byebye_sti · 164 1 December 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

I had a like problem and it ended up beingness the fuel pump relay. That is the reason I mentioned the fuel force per unit area gauge. It would randomly not turn on the fuel pump. Relay usually don't get bad but it does happen and from what you are saying information technology seems similar you are narrowing it down to the relay( being rusty and having grease on information technology). Good luck!

Good to hear that you lot've had a similar result resolved! If I take time today, I'chiliad going to make clean it up, and bypass it. Information technology'due south definitely disgusting and I don't fifty-fifty know how the grease got at that place, or how it would role...

I besides take another ECU on it's way with a cleaned board and new caps. Praying that information technology all comes together.

When the car DOES first, it has a high idle (2-3k) and isn't actually effected by the BISS. I'thou not going to touch on anything until the new ECU comes, but what else would cause this?

No boost leaks, TPS tested skillful, ISC tested practiced, FIAV is blocked.

luv2rallye

On 1G's, does the Fuel Pump prime when the key is in the ON position? If I call up correctly, from my reading, it does not.

For 1g'due south and 2g turbo: Fuel pump runs only while engine is cranking - ie. getting CAS pulses (not just ON).

gofer · eight,091 one,241 Feb 18, 2006 South Gilbert, Arizona

Exam your coolant temp sensor.

clipto · two,317 4 October 8, 2011 Portland, Oregon

Also try swapping the ability transistor unit to another 1 and see if information technology runs now.

Jesse2012 · 329 3 Jan 25, 2011 Rochester, New_York

Sounds like a fuel pressure problem like others take said, plainly unlike designs but I had this aforementioned problem with my Silverado, almost same symptoms, changed the fuel force per unit area regulator and problem solved.

byebye_sti · January 24, 2014

Test your coolant temp sensor.

I have...multiple times now. I testing the wiring, just at present I can't find the thread that would verify my numbers. I believe I am suppose to come across 5V on 1 of the wires, and the other is a ground. Which, when I tested, was good.

The car will turn over in the bitter cold, and then I retrieve it'southward working. I could be wrong though, and I volition go over everything again.

Also try swapping the power transistor unit of measurement to another one and see if information technology runs now.

Trying to find a PTU on the boards, but having problem. Everyone who PM's me with one for sale, doesn't answer. If I don't find ane by today, I'm going to go and purchase a new one.

Sounds like a fuel pressure trouble similar others have said, obviously different designs but I had this aforementioned problem with my Silverado, nigh aforementioned symptoms, inverse the fuel pressure regulator and trouble solved.

I will swap out the FPR and come across if this helps. :thumb:

EDIT:

Okay, the auto fired right upward this morning time - even in the biting cold of six*. It idled around 1200-1500RPM for about 5 minutes and so slowly started to climb. During this time, the car ran pretty smoothly - didn't sound like information technology was on 2 cylinders, nor sounded like a Subaru.

The idle went up to about 2500RPM, and I close the car down. When I attempted to restart the car, I had no like. It but cranked and cranked and cranked.

So, I tested spark. I am getting skilful spark on the two exterior cylinders (1&four), simply very weak spark (almost not-existent) on cylinders 2&three.

This leads me to believe that the ECU, and CAS are working - as the car is getting SOME spark.

Do these signs lead to the PTU?

gofer

I accept...multiple times now. I testing the wiring, simply now I can't find the thread that would verify my numbers. I believe I am suppose to see 5V on one of the wires, and the other is a ground. Which, when I tested, was practiced.

That means you're testing the harness (signal) to the ECU, you want to exam the coolant temperature sensor itself. Check resistance across the dorsum of the sensor as the car warms upwards, the below checks are coolant temp changes. Y'all'll notice resistance should DECREASE as the car warms up...

32* - 5.9 Thou-Ohms
68* - 3.five Yard-Ohms
104* - ii.7 K-Ohms
176* - 0.3 K-Ohms

This is how the ECU knows that the motorcar is warmed up, if the sensor fails the ECU thinks the CT's are -40* and volition go along dumping fuel which causes a rich no beginning condition.

byebye_sti · 164 i Dec 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

That means you're testing the harness (signal) to the ECU, you desire to exam the coolant temperature sensor itself. Check resistance across the dorsum of the sensor as the auto warms upward, the beneath checks are coolant temp changes. You'll detect resistance should DECREASE as the motorcar warms up...

32* - 5.9 One thousand-Ohms
68* - 3.5 Thou-Ohms
104* - 2.7 K-Ohms
176* - 0.3 Thousand-Ohms
This is how the ECU knows that the car is warmed up, if the sensor fails the ECU thinks the CT'due south are -40* and will keep dumping fuel which causes a rich no start condition.

I have tested all three of the sensors I've tried. The original sensor failed, and the resistance did not move.

The other two (new sensors) the resistance changed in my mitt, and in a basin of warm water. So they tested good.

gofer · eight,091 1,241 Feb 18, 2006 South Gilbert, Arizona

I have tested all three of the sensors I've tried. The original sensor failed, and the resistance did not movement.
The other two (new sensors) the resistance inverse in my manus, and in a bowl of warm water. And then they tested good.

Is this something that yous but did? I read thru your entire thread and didn't see anything near you lot testing/replacing a coolant temp sensor.

Well, if you know that the i installed in the machine is functioning properly and the wires going to the back of it aren't broke then it isn't the CTS.

byebye_sti · 164 1 Dec 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

Is this something that you just did? I read thru your unabridged thread and didn't meet annihilation about you testing/replacing a coolant temp sensor.
Well, if you know that the one installed in the motorcar is functioning properly and the wires going to the back of it aren't bankrupt then it isn't the CTS.

Should be in my other thread; I've posted a few.

Weird no-showtime problem after CTS replacement | Galant VR-iv > Technical Discussions | GalantVR-four.org Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Forum

But, the first thing I did was bandy in a new CTS, and re-do some of the brittle wiring. The motorcar ran great for ii days (when I got the motorcar), simply had a high idle.

Information technology wouldn't fire up in the cold, only on a warmer solar day would fire no problem. Other than that, aught drivability problems during those two days.

At present, once cooled down, the car will fire up one time, idle smoothly (but proceed to idle higher and higher until it reaches 2500-3000RPM), rev freely and smoothly, but one time I shut information technology off, it will not desire to restart.

gofer · 8,091 1,241 February 18, 2006 Southward Gilbert, Arizona

Ahhh. Don't accept an business relationship on GVR4.

Since you're getting weak spark on 2&3 afterward it has ran (warmed up) yous should exam the coil pack with a multimeter earlier you warm information technology upwards (cold) and subsequently you lot shut information technology off and endeavour to restart it (hot).

Compare the resistance measurements between the cold/hot readings...

byebye_sti · January 24, 2014

Awesome! Thank you for the info.

I'll exercise that right now.

Cold:
A coils - x.61
B coils - 10.81

Hot:
A coils - x.76
B coils - 10.97

Also, I approximate at some point I blew a fuse for the estimate cluster lights and tail lights.

89Patches · 115 0 Dec 9, 2012 Trenton, ON_Canada

I really had this same problem before. Would always start when cold just every bit shortly as it warmed up it would simply crank over. I Inverse the CAS it seemed to work for a little while but started doing it once again. I went over everything. The last thing I checked was the ECU and that'southward what caused my problem. One of the boards burnt up, replaced it it oasis't had a problem since.

Sounds just like the symptoms my auto had. Just something for you to consider.

byebye_sti · 164 i Dec 25, 2007 Barrington, New_Hampshire

I actually had this aforementioned trouble before. Would e'er commencement when cold but equally soon every bit it warmed up it would just crank over. I Changed the CAS information technology seemed to work for a trivial while but started doing it again. I went over everything. The last thing I checked was the ECU and that's what caused my problem. One of the boards burnt upwards, replaced it it haven't had a problem since.
Sounds only like the symptoms my car had. Only something for you to consider.

(GST with psi) sent me a know proficient ECU, and no modify. Ran fine in his car.

My whorl pack tested bad. Luckily, I was able to meet upward with Mike Rizzoti and he hooked me upwards with a coil pack, and PTU to test.

His curlicue pack tested good (resistance was 12.89 and 12.97). Compared to mine (see terminal postal service).

Hope all goes well tomorrow.

Swapped in the good PTU and Coilpack...

...no change.

Car fires upwards starting time time, and once it gets warm, it doesn't want to outset again.

Known expert ECU
Skillful PTU
Good coilpack
Expert Coolant Temp Sensor

Going to exercise a compression test.

At this point, I'm ready to supervene upon the entire engine harness.

bigassogre · 7 0 Aug 25, 2013 camp creek, West_Virginia

check power at the pump when it wont start. u might also effort to manually apply power

Jones Selit1998

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